I just spent 72 hours there and with that its most famous of nicknames. Other nicknames for Detroit include the D, Motown, and the 313 for their area code. There are many monikers but the belief that it was the home of the automotive industry still dominates with the famous GM Towers aligning the river and the skyline and the home of Ford as the two most significant still names in the business. But it is also known for its Motown sound and the legendary Fox and Fillmore where many legends of that industry played back in their day. And that is what Detroit seems to have been know for and its reputation and history is tied now to sports and of course the other more negative tropes that have dominated the news, such as Murder City due to its high homicide rates over the years.
What I think of as Detroit is that of a city built on the backs of Black persons who were largely a part of the Great Migration; Where many Black families and individuals left their homes and families in the South to find promised work and labor that would lend to equality and parity in America during the Manufacturing Age that began during WWII and continued on through the 50s and 60s. We once called this part of the Midwest the Steel Belt, referring to it now as the Rust Belt, as that industry and manufacturing base has now declined with most exported to Mexico and China.
The Pandemic brought that reminder of our once ability to produce and build is now one dependent upon Imports versus Exports, and that unequal distribution of labor and output defines our GDP and which our Economy is based. Our greatest contribution to the economy is that of Technology or Intellectual property. But again any of the extrinsic parts of that are too created and built elsewhere thanks to cheaper labor. And if that is akin to the idea of indentured servitude then this pandemic also exposed how that works in this global economy.
And it was Labor and the Unions that resulted out of the continued exploitation of Black Labor, labor both of servitude and slavery which built this country. And it was Labor and Unions and Collective Bargaining of wages and benefits that resulted and enabled the largest economic growth in our country to cross racial lines. And with that made America a powerhouse when it came to production. That now belongs to China thanks to their concept of labor and work as isn’t always politics of some kind, economics another.
Capitalism versus Communism are very different when it comes to the concept of “ownership” and certainly I have many a question about how labor works in a nation that oppresses its workforce. Hmm where I have I heard that before? Maybe they are not all that different. Ah but like all things when it comes to Race in America, White people have to cross the finish line first. Hey you are second place with a smaller trophy but at least you finished, right? And perhaps that is why there are two Detroit’s.
This article in the Guardian discusses how the fortunes fall and rise with its new form of gentrification. I believe this accurately sums it up for many urban cities in America and Detroit is a symbol of it. For Detroit is like Manhattan or like Jersey City, a confluence of both public and private investment and with that parts are booming and the rest in decline awaiting or simply waiting for its turn. And with that the chasm between the rich and the poor grows.
As you read the article the rich and of course the white new money falls to two men. Quicken Loans CEO and Little Ceasars Pizza Founder, Mike Illich. Their business names align buildings, the sports arenas and their mark is clear. Detroit is no longer Motor City. The GM Headquarters is now called the GM Ren Center and frankly it is largely empty and devoid of workers and businesses within yet it sits alight the Riverfront as if a marker for the past and the present. The Q line (get it Quicken?) whisks you for free from the River park that overlooks Canada and yes the infamous Trucker Strike Bridge is just there to the right and it takes you just further south past Wayne State College to the freeway. It is a 20 minute ride in one direction and back. It is the same length of time of the People mover that runs you around the city itself. The ride is no longer free to discontinue sleeping and homeless from riding within it and frankly you can walk the same periphery faster but I appreciated not walking for a stretch.
The parts of the city I did not venture are the Northwest as I went only as a far as the DIA, the Detroit Institute of the Arts to see their amazing Van Gogh exhibit. It was worth the trip on that alone. But after spending quite a bit of time discovering what a treasure they had in the DIA I came out to cross the wide boulevards to see the Detroit Historical Museum, and found it closed and with that I took a wander saw numerous old and vintage buildings for lease and quiet streets. What did stand out was the lack of faces of color other than Black, despite being right there near a University was surprising. I later came to learn that this was another issue as Detroit itself is heavily segregated. The South is largely now Latina and with that a strong community of vibrant homes and business. The North is now up for grabs and of course debate on what will arise from those ashes with the Streetcar stopping just at its border. That is home to the original Motown which was closed the day I was there. The reality for Detroit is again the divide between the have and the have nots and the politics and money that divide as well.
So as I wandered strictly downtown it was interesting to see how it was a vision of appearances and that they matter more over necessity. The lack of shopping other than a few boutiques, a Nike and H&M seemed to be mutton dressed as lamb as they were in glorious buildings with architecture and design that has been well preserved but that was the extent of actually buying any socks, underwear or cosmetics not possible. Down now beautifully redone alleys, near a Gucci no less, were many galleries, bars and other shops, some opened most not. I assume is a labor problem like many are facing. But the reality is that the area is still struggling with that issue and it is about Race I believe as again so few faces of color were anywhere in “front of the house” when it came to the expensive and bland Steak House, Prime and Proper, where I watched the Server prep the meal for an Athlete who was sitting a couple of stools down, as apparently cutting food might get on his expensive suit. The more informal Union Assembly was at least more diverse and fun as I will get into that story in a minute. But as I was there during the election that was once again I was surprised as to what little I knew of the area other than story after story that portrays Detroit in anything but positive light.
It is surprising to see the city today when only a few years ago it filed for Bankruptcy, its city politics had long had a history of corruption and the issues and yet it has a thriving Art Scene that rivals its emerging Tech sector. But what I am seeing and hearing with regards to tech of late, it might be approaching the 2000’s when they took a huge hit. Just ask Facebook, Twitter and Zillow how they are doing? How about that Crypto? Google that as well.
And with the Election day on Tuesday I was there to see that the supposed White Supremacists who promised to be in Detroit to observe were largely non-existent as they had I guess had their numbers down, due to arrests and prosecutions from varying acts that included attempting to kidnap Michigan’s Governor and other bullshit. anywhere I was and many seemed unaware of that plan as they are not known for coming to Detroit and if then only for the sports teams that dominate ALL the topics of conversation and not a bar or restaurant does not have a TV within tuned to a sports channel. For someone who doesn’t know sports all l could think was that their names were from a famous song, “Lions, Tigers and Bears, oh my!” Well I had one right. But sports is the common ground on which they all walk and I really did not have any true concept of what character or quality defines Detroit. The election within the State turned the entire region Blue the first time in over 50 years and it was again hardly mentioned in what little I heard. Then Detroit for the first time is NOT sending a Black person to Congress. He did win and will be going to the House to join Rashida Talib who is from the West side of Detroit. Again the issues of segregation were apparent to me as there was so few faces I saw that were not Black or White. And other than the Sports Star the few adult Black Men I did see were not doing well, not at all. It was distressing to pass Construction sites to even bars or restaurants and see few to none working. I was shocked when I had a Male Desk Clerk of a “certain age” at my Hotel but he was it. I would love to comment on the Siren Hotel as quaint and adorable and literally across the street from the shiny new Shinola which is also a big reason for the gentrification of the area and mythology, but in all honesty I was so distracted by the Hotel Bar and silly shenanigans in which to get a seat (you need to be seated or have reservations and only for 2 hours or so can you stay) I was not sure what to make of it, or the restaurant which is again oddly closed and only open on certain days with advanced reservations. Come on folks. I did love the back alley Karaoke bar however behind as that was old flare with simple straight drinks and not absurd overly crafted cocktails which the Candy Room seems to specialize. Over the top and not really fun as that was my major complaint about Detroiter’s, they are not friendly at all. And then I met a young gal when I wandered in to a random place for my last meal. It was near all the sports stadiums and a short walk to my hotel. I suspected that I did not want to wander and after paying the overpriced bill for very okay food but very inadequate service the night before, I was just going to dine and dash, but that changed with our introduction.
She was a venerable fount of opinion and information. She confirmed what I suspected about the strange public transportation options, the large stadiums and their wealthy white benefactors. She taught me about the history of Detroit and its embedded segregation that distinctly divides the neighborhoods, the North, South, East and West and with that shared with me here growing up in Michigan, moving to Detroit to attend Wayne State just down the street and living in the region where she was from an Evangelical household and now married to a mix race Egyptian/Latin speaking member of the National Guard, who was getting a Masters in Education (the most useless degree folks I have one and don’t bother with it) and was looking to get into politics himself later down the line. Then the story got interesting.
And I shared this with my seat mate on the flight home, he was from Detroit and was friendly. He has a girlfriend who is Corporate Counsel for one of the start ups in the area, full of money and yet while high on cash low on smarts. She too has forced them to let go of the double dippers (aka the Tech’s working two jobs, as the profile in Vanity Fair discusses), the lack of education of most of the staff and experience with it and the overall bloated nature of what defines “tech”. Yes folks this recession is the white collar one and it is coming. And during our flight he shared his story about his 22 y/o daughter who is emotional over all things and everything. She has more labels than a jar of mayo and the hyphens that define here again are well past three. Yes folks this is the new age and they are annoying as fuck.
Her first comment to me was about her being Bi and then discussing her “partner” who I would later learn/understand was a man her age. They have an open relationship and live apart, she in her own Condo and he in “their” home in the other part of town. She was adopted at 18. Well being of legal age okay so she has two siblings who were younger and the family who adopted them were church mates of her Mother and did this as a promise when she died to care for them as a family. I gather this was akin to a very Southern Baptist Reformist based faith like those I knew of in the South. She left as soon as she could to attend college in Detroit and it was in a play in drama class she like Katy Perry kissed a girl and liked it. Then she realized she was a Lesbian until she wasn’t. She was not detailed with regards to how many partners she has had at age 29 but has been “married” for four or five years but that is why they have an open marriage and they attend orgies together. Yes that is correct she said ‘orgy’ and with that I ordered another glass of wine. It would not be the first time I heard that word as later on the way back to my hotel I met someone who was on his way to one as well. Wow that Detroit may not be friendly but they love sex parties.
With that declaration out of the way she discussed her siblings who are apparently now Trans. One is non binary and unsure of going all the way.. no not to a sex party but then again… and the other is fully working towards transitioning. I find this FASCINATING in a simple numbers way. How is that possible that the entire family of children who lost their Mother all became ostensibly all members of what is ostensibly a very rare sexual identity? Two Trans and one Bisexual? Wow. I am not sure if this was all in response to the trauma of living in grief, under extreme religious oppression or just living in Michigan? When I asked my seat mate he is 57 and thinks much of this as do I a need to belong. Or as my Mother used to say, “Be different like everyone else”. This young lady was a nice gal. She wants to be real estate rich and as she and her partner/husband are home owners of two properties and are now relocating for his/they/whatever work to Northern Michigan (aka White Supremacy country) they want to buy another. How they accomplish this is unclear as I never knew what she actually does for work and with that I have no idea how a National Guardsman attending school has that kind of cash but okay! So I suspect much of this story was bullshit or not. At least it made the evening interesting. I live across the river from Manhattan and never heard this so hey Welcome to Detroit.
Would I ever go back? No I actually liked Cleveland and would if there was a reason to and there is no reason what.so.ever to with regards to Detroit. I just did not actually like the people I met. That matters and it explains why that city struggles, they have lost souls. Too many frankly.