Much is made of late with regards to the role of inflation and our nation’s economic recovery. We are seeing HELP WANTED signs in almost all industries (those are largely low paying service sector jobs the ones most hit hard by the quarantine) and then we have the issue of pay and safety at work that once seem relegated to the OSHA folks and those jobs we think normally as physically dangerous seem to be almost all jobs now. And lastly we have the belief that the extended unemployment benefits and extra incentives that were last dished out months ago have many folks living high on the hog and buying up all those retail goods we keep hearing about that are now selling out and cannot be restocked due to supply chain disruptions, once again attributed to all things Covid.
The reality is Americans were never paid sufficiently and wages have never been commensurate to the cost of living which is why most Americans pay well over 40% of their income to housing. With the eviction moratorium looming overhead we are hearing now about many being taken to court to find that millions of “Gummit” money is awaiting processing that could be distributed to those landlords who are demanding back rent. Some simply refuse and for whatever reason want to evict said tenants, and said tenants are usually faces of color and struggle in the best of times to make that monthly obligation. Much like judgements made by Bill Collectors few make it to court to debate the charges and allegations and the same goes with renter’s courts and the process to navigate said system is again all related to the thing no one wants to teach – critical race theory. The system is set up so complicated (as these Lawyers explain) that unless you can afford legal support to assist you are on your own. And this is largely applicable to faces of color/the poor. So let’s roll through an example: You are poor, you owe money (rent, bills etc) and you can’t pay them all, so you take on a money lender bullshit high interest loan to try to consolidate, or you simply pay the minimum on each or you simply ignore one, and pay in succession or order of import. In other words there will be always one debtor getting shafted with the idea of paying them more the next time around. So the debtor/landlord files a judgement which is then mailed (no they don’t serve them as once did) and in turn you either ignore it, don’t receive it or cannot take the time off of work, arrange child care, transportation, get the paperwork completed and supported, let alone know where you are to go and what to do when you get there, it usually means you lose, before you walk in the door. That is a part of what CRT is trying to say that the system is set up for failure for those who are not white. **
***this is where I note that in the South there are wide swaths of poverty that crosses color lines but the white poor rarely acknowledge they are poor, the may participate in some of the social safety nets, but they often don’t as a way of elevating themselves above the Black community and for whatever reason they see subsidized housing, food stamps and medicaid as the way the Government supports Black people or as Reagan once said, “The Welfare Queen.” And yet they are as dirt poor and in need there is where race finally takes one on the ladder of the South but it is down at the bottom folks, openly race hating/baiting is not their priority. That is the North that does that. Hi Seattle! ***
I love when we say old folks are on a “fixed income” UH WE ALL ARE. And even that is debatable, again, many people do not work a 40 hour work week. Many of the service jobs are flexible schedules that do not guarantee a specific set days/hours worked. This is of course bypassing the issues regarding the race and gender pay gap that has persisted with the decline of unions that did its best to reconcile that issue; The few jobs that are union organized do get this, but even there, there is a difference in organizing between the two colored collars, as exemplified by the pursuit to organize Amazon, versus those at magazines and newspapers. Funny how that works isn’t it? Or is that about education and the ability to communicate effectively vs about need and desire to collectively bargain? But even those businesses that have strong union members since the pandemic are still awaiting a return to full time staffing/hours thanks to the endless change in dynamics due to Covid.
Covid exposed a lot of the problems the average worker was facing, irregular hours, low pay, no health care or retirement benefits, little advancement/training, high housing costs, transportation issues and of course sick leave. When you are white collar you have the perk of commuting from the bedroom to the office, you have sick leave, health care benefits, retirement planning, a career track and of course wage and salary reviews annually. The jobs done are considered less essential ironically and that truly exposed the reality of America, the essential workers are the lowest paid, the sickest and the most invisible. They are now so invisible they are not filling the jobs they once did without complaint.
But here is the Venn Diagram of life, we overlap in our interests and pursuits. We all like to go on holiday, we like to go to sporting or other entertainment venues and we love to go out shopping and more importantly – eating. And with Covid there is no clearer widespread damage outside of human lives, than the one in the restaurant industry. From large to small many of businesses that make and serve food, be it fast, casual or elegant, found themselves having to pivot or close in which to survive. Funny how the word survival has taken on so many meanings when it comes to Covid, but we have used it interchangeably to describe cancer patients, sexual assault victims, or any other form of disease, pain or failure. It is like the term, Fixed Income, WE ALL ARE.
I do dine out when traveling, and over the years that has finally evolved into one night usually sitting at a bar when I order up. I used to go to dine out and it is fucking boring as hell to sit at a table and do course after course alone. I did the last big dine at Collective Retreats Lodge on Governor’s Island where I stayed for a night of glamping in June. It was fantastic until they charged me for two dinners, then not so much. Untangling that hot mess ruined the experience in its entirety. And yes I had lunch there before and they did the same. Single diners are clearly a problem there. But the food was amazing and each course was a revelation of delight. Food is great when someone else takes you on an adventure that you would never do at home and that is why every now and then I step it up. But the cost of that and the time involved for me to sit alone really defines that it is not worth it in every sense of the word. The average cost for me to do a real meal is around $200 bucks. Yes that is right, when I walk away with a bill less than 50 it means I did not drink or eat anywhere near what I would if I was truly there to enjoy a meal out. And maybe that is the point, I should not be spending that but once or twice a year. And more Americans need to realize that. The Brunch Crowd have to the most annoying folks ever and as Gabrielle Hamilton a Chef has written about and the late Anthony Bourdain has as well, it is the least profitable and most thrown together menu option. But it is cheap and it puts asses in seats and the low margins of restaurants this is their version of fast casual. But also we have excess in portions and quality. And the reality is that many of the chains that are blooming with onions and endless pasta need to rethink that on two counts – cost and health. This contributes to many of the larger issues of Covid when it comes to pre-existing conditions that led to many deaths; the overall Comorbidity of Americans (look at Trump lives off fast food and yet Golfs.. gee Tiger Woods gets a pin in his leg and is fitter) has many overweight, high blood pressure, diabetes and all of this is preventable. We sure fear preventative medicine or care don’t we?
Food is an obsession in America. Dinner is a meal that is the round table, the event, the special occasion, the date night, the celebration or just the chance to reset. When you go out the idea is to take the night off from the heavy lifting of shopping, planning, prepping, eating and cleaning. Now take that and multiply that by at least 10. It takes that many people to prep your food, clean your plate, make your drink, bring that drink and plate to you and lastly the two or three to actually make the food. The ordering, the planning and the delivery is also a chain of command and again a series of businesses that do the laundry and cleaning of the establishment when closed. And add the guardian of the gate, the host/hostess and the series of individuals that manage the wine and liquor to enable you to have a choice from which to choose. So let’s play how many people does it take to make your meal and dining out experience just that, an experience. A whole fucking lot! And all of them have to be paid, make a living wage, not work when sick so you don’t get sick and that all the food, all the dishes, plates, glasses and silverware is clean for you to use and that all has to be done in less than a 24 hour turnaround time as many restaurants are open 12 hours a day to make it work. It is a low profit margin business in the best of times and these are not the best of times.
My Mother said that I was to pick a profession that I could do anywhere and that was food or teaching. She did not mention hospitality which I could also do but maybe she had a thought about that business that she did not share but let’s put it this way, if she thought it was to protect me from sexual situations she did not realize that women are not safe in any profession regardless. And yes folks ask those Nuns about that one. I spent about three months working in a old folks home serving lunch and dinners four days a week. The worst.job.ever. I learned two things: That I don’t want to end up in an old folks home (yeah right there alright); and that I hated the food service industry. I do like the service trade and loved working retail overall as when I was unionized and had set hours I did well and made money, it still sucks but I did great at it and it made me a great Teacher. So I guess Mother was right.
But we are also lousy guests and hard to serve. Today I am seeing a much more abusive behavior by customers, on planes, on trains, in automobiles, in stores and on the street. We are an angry lot that Covid enabled and exposed. We hit the gas pedal on this one and the crazy are racing the autobahn and the rest of us are just dodging the speeding cars. No folks we are not ever going back to “normal” whatever that was or is. We are in survival mode. See that word is all purpose.
I read this essay about the idea that restaurants need to rethink the model and in turn how we see ourselves in relation to that business, from costs to frequency, it is time to maybe turn back time. Cher called that one.
Restaurants Will Never Be the Same. They Shouldn’t Be.
Aug. 10, 2021 The New York Times
By Peter Hoffman Mr. Hoffman operated the New York City restaurants Savoy, Back Forty and Back Forty West from 1990 to 2016.
Few business sectors have experienced such violent swings between feast and famine in the last year as restaurants. Early in the pandemic, there was a demand problem: Few to no customers were willing to take the risk of eating in a dining room. Today, people are going out to eat again, and amid overwhelming demand, there’s a supply issue: A serious labor shortage confronts restaurants across the country.
As a chef and former restaurant owner, I know that the root causes of this predicament date to well before the pandemic. To address it, restaurants must fundamentally change. Diners must, too.
Operating on the thinnest of margins, restaurants often engage in a race to the bottom to offer diners “value” and keep them coming back. They buy cheap ingredients, pay low wages and stretch people to their limits. In many restaurants, immigrants and people of color are marginalized, and reports of sexual harassment and assault are widespread. And restaurant culture more broadly shames employees for taking care of themselves, valorizes abuse as “tough love” and shows little regard for work-life balance.
This can be especially true in high-end, prestigious restaurants. They’re often worse places to work because they capitalize on the résumé-building value of their reputations, extracting even greater sacrifices from employees. Abuse (often glamorized on reality TV shows with celebrity chefs) is excused as necessary to create a superlative dining experience for the customer.
It’s no wonder that in the last year and a half, both front (hosting and waiting) and back-of-the-house (kitchen) restaurant workers have quit the industry in droves.
Restaurants’ staffing crises were not created by former employees opting to collect unemployment benefits rather than return to work, as some people have argued. Rather, many restaurant employees have discovered that having time to care for family members, engage in self-improvement projects or participate more in parenting and household chores improved their well-being. They have reflected on the abuse, exploitation and lack of safety they endured in kitchens and dining rooms, and questioned whether or not to return.
There’s little to reassure workers that returning to restaurants now is a safe or wise choice. Although many corporations are delaying return-to-work requirements until later in the fall or even next year to protect the health of all their employees, restaurants that survived the pandemic — and many didn’t — are welcoming customers back out of necessity. Workplace safety remains a real concern. In this ongoing pandemic fueled now by the Delta variant, restaurants cannot easily adapt to social distancing or staggered work schedules. By design, kitchens are tight spaces, and restaurant work involves closely interacting with an ever-changing cast of strangers. Working from home is not an option. And as diners return to restaurants, some seem to have forgotten their manners. Reports of rude and abusive customers have proliferated.
Thankfully, extended unemployment benefits have afforded some restaurant workers breathing room to consider whether to return. Increased wages are a necessary first step to convince them, but for many workers, the decision is not only a financial one, said Steven Picker, executive director of the NYC Department of Small Business Services’ Food and Beverage Industry Partnership, an alliance between the city and industry professionals and businesses. We must take this moment, he said, as “an opportunity to commit to improvements in talent management and workplace culture — critical components in the restaurant industry’s ability to be healthy and resilient.”
Owners can begin those improvements by increasing the size of staff and committing to mentoring and supporting employees, practices common in other industries.
Calling out sick, for example, does not have to signify weakness or lack of commitment. As much as I was intent on creating a positive work environment in my restaurants, we often ran with just adequate staffing. As a result, we had little flexibility in responding to staffing emergencies. We leaned on people to come into work, whether they were fully recovered or not. This led to instances when influenza outbreaks moved through the entire staff, wreaking scheduling havoc and even possibly transmitting the illness to guests. At the time, risking transmission was an acceptable cost of doing business. Fortunately, the pandemic has taught us that restaurants can better serve their community by building the staffing capacity to allow ill employees to stay home.
The changes restaurant owners must make will succeed only if diners support them. If restaurants are to raise their wages, grow their staffing rosters and improve their cultures, diners will have to pay more to dine out and should embrace those increases as expressions of their own values.
I have faith that diners can accept these changes gracefully, even if it means going out to eat less often. As a pioneer of the farm-to-table movement, I was one of many chefs who accustomed diners to paying what we understood to be the real cost of good food. At my restaurants, we heralded farming practices that built up the soil. Our diners willingly paid higher prices for food produced this way. Our reputation was built on transparency and the tacit agreement between chef and diner that, for the benefit of the planet, everyone was participating in paying the true cost of food.
Adjusting to the price of better work cultures will be difficult for many. But dining out less isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Treating a restaurant meal as a special occasion rather than a frequent convenience may represent a quality of life improvement for all. And operating restaurants five days a week, instead of seven, could make work life more manageable for staff members.
Unlike the taste of a fabulous heirloom tomato, a kinder and more fair work culture may not be immediately discernible on the palate. But many consumers already fold labor considerations into their ingredient choices. They buy coffee and chocolate from Fair Trade sources that pay living wage premiums to workers, for example.
Can we build a work culture that doesn’t thrive on exploitative policies? The answer will depend on whether owners can improve workplace culture and food sourcing, whether diners will pay higher prices for those improvements and whether we can view restaurant dining not as a replacement for home cooking but as a special addition to it.